The Superior Simple Solitaire

Simplicity is the key when it comes to the perfect engagement ring. There will always be those that enjoy a diamond studded engagement ring with all the bells and whistles. Trust me, we can deliver that look easily. But what my newly engaged couples have been asking for lately is the classic solitaire. Divine in its simplicity and effortlessly timeless there is no other ring that can hold a candle to it. There are a lot of subtle changes we can make to it to customize it and make it personal. 

My preference is the cathedral setting. This ring has slight shoulders that elevate the diamond. The diamond is elevated just enough that nearly any wedding ring or guard rings she may choose will fit snugly next to it. (Guard rings are worn on either side of the engagement ring, and the second ring is usually a perfect match to the original wedding band. It can be presented as an anniversary or a “just because I love you” ring.) The cathedral setting or mounting ensures a clean,flush-fitting look. It really is a universal ring. They come in platinum or any color gold you may choose. Our store policy is to set diamonds in a white gold or platinum head only. Yellow gold tends to be too soft and prongs will bend too easily and that can lead to the loss of your precious diamond. White gold or platinum is the better choice for durability and long-term wear and tear.  

A lot of people have their minds set on a platinum setting. This is a fine choice as well, as long as you understand the properties of platinum. While the price per ounce of platinum is in fact lower than gold at the moment it does not mean that platinum is cheaper in finished jewelry. What people don’t understand is how much more platinum weighs and how dense it is. In addition to needing more platinum to make the same ring, it is also a far more difficult material to work with and there are increased labor costs. This is true when creating the ring, and also true when sizing in the future or needing any prong repair. It’s always more! Another great property of platinum that people do not realize is it wears like iron;this is where the properties of platinum get weird…while it is avery white metal and very hard-wearing, it is still soft. It shows every ding, scratch, or divot immediately. If the ring is designed thin and willowy, like the new skinny look in engagement rings, it will bend and warp and the prongs will move constantly while you wear it.A lot of my particular ladies do not like that platinum does that at all! Platinum will stay white over the years and never need rhodium plating like white gold but will need constant buffing to achieve that high-shine finish people want. The melting point of platinum is 3,215 degrees Fahrenheit; compare this to the melting point of 1,947 degrees Fahrenheit for gold, and you get the gist of what we are working with here. My Dad has been working with platinum for decades and has told me a lot of bench jewelers will decline platinum work or send it out. What is worse, some inexperiencedso-called “jewelers” will instead use white gold or even silver to make it easier to work on platinum rings and that will compromise the ring from then on. It really is a whole other skill set and may require specialized equipment. This may cause problems for you in maintaining your ring through the years.  

Pure 24 karat gold is alloyed with other white alloy metals to turn it white. As we wear it and bang it on things it will slowly reveal the original yellow-gold color. This is entirely normal and expected. For me, I am perfectly happy with white gold and luckily have my dad on hand to give it a quick rhodium bath that turns white gold a bright, shiny white if I find it yellowing over time. Honestly, it doesn’t bother me at all. It’s really only noticeable on the bottom underneath the ring for the most part. For those of you not lucky enough to have a jeweler for a Dad, expect to pay $80 to $100 per ring for rhodium plating due to the high price of that metal. In general, women have it done yearly to their daily wear rings and less often for right-hand rings or occasional pieces. 

The recent color of choice for solitaire rings has been yellow! Color me surprised! I love the rich yellow look and have been excited to see yellow gold come back in vogue. It’s also a great choice for an I color diamond or lower-color stone. I and J color diamonds tend to have a tinge of yellow in them, and when paired with the yellow gold ring it’s less noticeable. When an I or J color diamond is set in white gold that warmer undertone is a bit more pronounced and the diamond can read more yellow than it really is. A yellow gold engagement ring with a white gold head lends itself to many styles of wedding rings. Paired with a fun stack of bands you can achieve a two-tone or even three-tone look. Yes, rose gold is back! And it is pretty!  

One thing to consider before adding a rose gold band to your set is if you have a copper allergy. 24 karat gold is alloyed with copper to achieve that pinky color. Those who may react to copper should stay away from rose gold. We did a beautiful princess-cut diamond custom wedding set in rose gold and the customer was thrilled with the final result. The world is your oyster when it comes to wedding ring designs. When designing a wedding ring for a young man with a slim budget, I always recommend a solitaire. The budget can get chewed up pretty quickly by a diamond-accented band and in turn, this shrinks the budget for the center diamond. Most ladies want the largest diamond their love can afford and there are plenty of years in the future to upgrade the band. Another great benefit of the solitaire ring is there is no need to custom design a matching wedding ring. Anytime something needs to be created custom, the labor costs increase.  

These are the reasons, my darling readers, that I love the classic solitaire. The diamond stands on its own as the center of attention. The ring can be modified easily without increasing production costs, and if we are on a tight schedule, I can pull this off in record time! Come visit me for a consultation to redesign your dated set or perhaps a big anniversary is approaching? Maybe it is time for an upgrade? Last year, I was included in a few couples’ 40th anniversaries, and we were able to surprise a few lucky ladies with the ring of their dreams!