South Africa – Where the Sky Seems Larger

It was still dark when we climbed into our open Toyota Landcruiser in the early morning hours, but a glimpse of light announcing the coming day was in the air. Four of us had comfortable seats, blankets and even a warm water bottle! And before leaving at 5:30 AM we enjoyed coffee or tea and a choice of delicious shortbread cookies and cakes made that same morning. This is a high-end luxury safari after all. About thirty minutes into the game drive, we stopped at a high rocky point as the sun majestically rose above the mountain range seemingly miles away in the wide-open terrain. It is a magnificent view of the African wild I have enjoyed so many times over the years but will never tire of. As if on cue, somewhere near the horizon an elephant trumpeted alarmingly. Our ranger-guide and tracker had discovered footprints of lions in the sand and as we slowly drove onwards hoping but knowing better that we would not see a glimpse of the lion before our guides did with their years of experience. However, with high expectations we searched right and left into the veld and low bushes anyway. It never has ceased to amaze me how animals can simply disappear in the bush, including the massive elephants, the largest mammal of them all.

Ever since we began organizing small groups on photo safaris over twenty years ago, I have never lost the exciting anticipation that is such an important part of an African safari. Indeed “I dream of Africa,” just like Kim Basinger, Vincent Perez and Daniel Craig in the famous movie “I Dreamed of Africa” as well as Meryl Streep with Robert Redford in the equally exciting “Out of Africa” drama romance. The magic of Africa has never left me since my very first encounter with an elephant in the bush standing not more than four feet from the jeep and a graceful giraffe fluttering large endearing eyelashes while curiously looking at us from above. A zebra peacefully drinking from a pond and an elusive rhino obviously considering charging us, or not bother and continue peacefully eating the grasses from the savannah. Out of principle I have stayed away from the very lucrative hunting safaris and instead enjoyed watching animals and teaching people how to photograph them mostly without professional camera equipment. It is amazing what one can do even with a recent model iPhone. And instead of taking hundreds of photos, I finally learned to simply enjoy the sights of nature and wildlife in the bush for the pleasure of the moment. Remember, most people at home don’t really want to see more than a few of your photos without experiencing the spectacular nature themselves. 

A herd of impalas darted across the track in front of us having fun while a baboon mother and baby were watching and a kudu with its impressive rack of horns peeked at us from behind the tree cover. We rounded a corner of the track we had been following and stopped dead as a magnificent lion stood in the middle of our path staring at us with mild curiosity. 

Behind the creature were four more lions all stretched out on the path in various forms of relaxation or discomfort from gorging themselves from a recent kill. Obviously, all had recently filled their bellies to bursting and a little later we discovered what little was left of the carcass of a buffalo. Not a sight for the faint at heart and the smell is atrocious as well, but so much part of the cycle of life in the wild without intervention of man. These spectacular animals were not going anywhere soon. After a staring contest with the only lion not laying down and marveling at the majestic beauty of the “king of the beasts” we gave up eventually and made a detour through the bush around them.

Most everyone comes to the African countries wanting to see the “Big Five,” a term dating back to hunting safaris as the lion, leopard, rhino, elephant, and African buffalo were considered the most dangerous to hunt. Surprisingly on this journey and certainly not something that happens on many safaris, we had seen all of them on our first day and the “pressure was off” for our ranger-guide and tracker letting everyone relax with the myriad of other animals and colorful birds who make their home in the National Parks. There are 147 species of mammals, 508 different bird species, some of them exotically plumed like the lilac-breasted roller. There are 115 reptiles, over 50 different snakes, some of them very dangerous, like the black mamba, and almost 50 species of fish. Kruger, the largest park maintained by the government of South Africa, provides wildlife a vast 4.815 million acres of unfenced grounds to roam. Tarred roads crisscross the park and anyone with a car can drive here from sunup to sundown by paying a daily park fee. However, as previously mentioned, it is incredibly difficult to spot animals without the experience of a ranger-tracker. Additionally, these professionals have been schooled to read the behavior of the large and most dangerous ones, thus allowing optimum viewing and close encounters with wildlife with a minimum of risk. South Africa has numerous Private Game Reserves offering spectacular luxurious lodge, hotel, and romantic tent accommodations. Access is reserved for guests on safari packages and unlike daily visitors to Kruger National Park, the safari lodge jeeps can drive off-road and at night as well. On my most recent journey we stayed in four of these private areas. Despite the open policy everywhere, the vast distances do guarantee a difference in the landscape and concentration of wildlife. And even management differs greatly from one reserve to the next. To protect both black and white rhinos from poachers, some reserve managements chose to safely catch the rhinos and dehorn them so they wouldn’t be hunted for their horns. And other reserves opted to greatly increase surveillance and anti-poaching with numerous heavily armed patrols instead. Helicopters are also used to preserve the horned rhinos and protect elephants. Not an easy task as there is still a very high demand, mainly by the higher middle class in China where 70% of illegal poached ivory ends up. It is difficult to find the manpower willing to risk their lives to enforce the rules against the trade as a fast network of criminals with unlimited budgets threatens enforcers. Just a few months ago 42-year-old Anton Mzimba, head of poaching control in Timbavati Private Game Reserve, was shot to death in his home in front of his wife and children, presumably to set an example that poachers who cannot bribe certain officials are still at liberty to threaten the community. 

However, safari tourism with its lodges, hotels, tented camps, and generous grants greatly helps pay for protection and preservation of the African wildlife and nature. One can enjoy a safari practically any time of the year and right now Christmas and New Year are considered high season, but most times I have traveled to Africa during their spring or autumn time to have the best weather. Our winter is their summer. This time it was the start of the rainy season in November with the advantage of witnessing pregnant wildlife and babies being born everywhere. One such experience was a wildebeest baby not more than a couple of days old. She tried to follow Mom, suckle, and stand properly on her own wobbly little legs while the herd was moving through the savanna. It was obvious viewing the pregnant animals that many more babies were going to be born soon and we thoroughly enjoyed slowly following the herd. But suddenly we were reminded of the cruel life in the world of nature as seemingly out of nowhere a cheetah raced in and snatched the baby. It was a short contest and in the middle of the many panicking wildebeest the sleek magnificent cheetah made off to a nearby bush while holding the poor struggling calf by the neck slowly suffocating her. We watched until the struggle was over and the cheetah began her feast starting at the rump, all the while constantly watching out for other predators possibly challenging her and stealing her catch. The scene reminds one of life in the world of the wild and how challenging it can be. 

Please join me in two weeks with part two as I will show you some of the properties used for high end safaris and an exhilarating walking encounter with one of Africa’s most dangerous and unpredictable wild animals, the black rhino, as well as my favorite, possibly the most intelligent member of wildlife in Africa: the elephant. And finally a beautiful cheetah who played hide and seek and seemed ready to take the play a step further. In the meantime, I wish all our readers a Happy New Year, or as they say in Afrikaans: “Gelukkige Nuwe Jaar.”        

Ewout Rijk de Vries and his wife, Jill, brought America Travel Arrangements to Marco Island almost 40 years ago. They specialize on high end small adventure tours and small safari groups for clientele all over the world, but also are experts on high end cruises with the help of longtime assistant and friend, Michelle Wegman. In combination with his writing and photography, Ewout has visited close to 100 countries. Please direct your comments or questions to ewout@photodevries.com as he likes to hear from readers.