Little Havana

The year was 1980, and I was driving in the middle lane of the three lanes on Route 1 in South Miami towards downtown at about six or seven miles over the speed limit. Suddenly, I was passed on both sides, at high speed, by two big black SUVs. Just ahead of me they were catching up to each other. Windows opened up and the shooting began. I hit the brakes and went off the first exit. Regretfully, this was not even the first time I experienced such a scene. This year was the beginning of the “Mariel Boat Lift,” and we had just moved from New York City to Miami. The previous two years in New York’s Manhattan had not been easy either, as that was when Edward Koch was Mayor, long before Rudi Giuliano got the job in 1989 and changed the crime-ridden city into one of the greatest, safest and cleanest cities in the world. As we all know, that has sadly changed again. But back to Miami. At the time we moved there, one could not safely walk downtown after five in the afternoon. My office was at the end of one of the runways at Miami Airport and police told me to carry a gun if I had to go there in the evening. We lived at an Arvida Community in South Miami for two years, got broken into twice and I faced two attackers in my own home during the day with a sawed-off shotgun.

Changing my New York driver’s license to Florida required eight hours of standing in line together with all the new Cuban arrivals.

It is no wonder we ended up on beautiful Marco Island so many years ago and never looked back. But the world keeps changing here as well with many more high-rise condo buildings lining the beach, traffic lights have appeared to try to keep the traffic flowing, but one might have to wait through two light changes during the busy winter months. And Rt 951 was two lanes as it crossed over at Rt 41, where there were no stores and only a U-Pick strawberry field on that corner.

But driving Rt 92 from Marco Island to Rt 41 and from there to Miami has changed little and is still one of the most scenic drives in the United States. The smallest post office in the country, dating back to 1932, is still operating roadside in Ochopee. Former postal clerk and native Everglades City resident Shannon Mitchell, who worked there for over 20 years, always used to say: “Stop on your way over to buy some stamps to keep me in business.” The office is still fully functional serving a three-county area including the Seminole and Miccosukee Tribes. Drive further along the endless straight road of waving grasses, sabal cabbage palms and mesmerizing long-range nature views. Stop to stretch your legs, and most likely, you will see numerous alligators, herons, and other wildlife. Eventually, the road lifts slightly above the ground as special construction was adopted to allow wildlife to cross unobstructed from one side to the other.

About halfway to Miami you might witness the startling view of a large aircraft flying low over the Everglades landing or taking off from a 10,000-long airport runway constructed in the middle of nowhere. This was part of a plan back in 1968 to build the world’s largest airport away from urban life that would allow for 24-hour supersonic traffic. It is a wonder the runway was actually built, as the project was almost immediately halted by conservationists wanting to protect one of America’s greatest national parks. Due to more modern and detailed flight simulators, not many pilots are training here anymore, but recently I was once again awarded the impressive view of a large aircraft seemingly lifting up out of the Everglades.

The first sights of the Miami area include the massive Miccosukee Casino and Resort and approximately five miles further you are in Little Havana, or Calle Ocho as Rt 41 is referred to here. From here it is only another mile or so to the end of the famous “Tamiami Trail” that’s not a Native American name. It simply means “Tampa to Miami.”

Like most urban centers, Miami has also changed again. Downtown is now strikingly fashionable amidst spectacular modern high rises that make Miami the third largest city for skyscrapers after New York and Chicago. An impressive new connection over the water is planned that will drastically change the skyline. The $840 million “Signature Bridge” will be 1,025 feet long supported by six massive arches. The largest arch is expected to reach a height of 325 feet and be 650 feet wide.

In the middle of all these changes is that stretch of Rt. 41 with three additional names, “Calle Ocho,” 8th Street, meaning the same, and “Little Havana” where life goes on as it has since the first Cubans arrived in exile to Miami. Shops, garages, grocery stores and many other businesses look like they did 60 years ago. In 1960, Felipe Valls and his family fled Cuba after Castro took over the country, and in 1971, he opened his restaurant “Versailles.” He wanted to create the grand old style from the famous palaces in France with an atmosphere also copied in nightclubs and restaurants in Cuba before Castro. Mirrored walls bordered by multiple lights reflect into the restaurant creating the festive “grand ballroom style” added by multi-light glass chandeliers. His second goal was to make it affordable for the struggling Cubans in Miami, and his motto for fellow Cubans was: “Leave happier than you arrived.” The family business bought two adjacent buildings, enlarging the original restaurant adding “Café Versailles” and “Pastry Stand.” One can order the famous Cuban coffees right there at the window-bar or “La Ventanita.” This is the place to go in the morning for your cortadito, a pastelito, and a croqueta. The next building the family purchased is now their own bakery. And amongst all the growth, quality remains as good as it always has been, and pricing is still very reasonable by Miami standards. As a result, Versailles is still the unofficial headquarters for the Cuban community.

Regular patrons and waiters know each other, mixing with tourists from all over the world. Versailles also opened five coffee stands in Miami Airport. 

The front of the restaurant remains a focal point for Cuban demonstrations. Politicians still appear to show support and wow the Cuban community. Former presidents George Bush and Bill Clinton have both dined here, and according to several sources, Donald Trump walked unannounced into the bakery one day and back in 1977, former Florida Governor Bob Graham worked different jobs at the restaurant for a day in hopes the community would vote for him.

My wife and I recently stopped in for lunch on our way back to Marco Island and my “Mariscos” (shrimp) in white wine, cream and cheese sauce was as delicious as it was 40 years ago. Any time I need to travel to Miami, I will always continue to stop here at least for a Cuban coffee. It proves that in this constantly changing world, some things don’t change!