It’s Not Easy Being Green or Blue

No, it’s not a depressed Kermit the frog I’m talking about here; besides being the birthstone for May, it’s a gemstone I consider to be one of the world’s most magnificent, mysterious and most precious…“The Emerald.”

I realize it’s late, but it does not matter - this gem is popular year-round regardless of the fact it can be one of the most expensive gems one can possess, and the cost can even surpass fine diamonds.

First, the technical stuff… The Emerald is a precious gem that is in the Beryl family; its green color is the result of mineral traces of chromium and vanadium. If Mother Nature decides to change things up a bit, she would only have to add traces of iron impurities to the clear white beryl and that result is a close relative to the emerald, The Ocean Blue Aquamarine.

Like most things in life, there are many levels of quality - good, bad and downright ugly! Then there is the exceptionally fine quality I prefer to talk about because, after all, I’m the biggest diamond and gemstone snob on the planet. This past 2024 season in my shop, the demand for both Emerald and Aquamarine jewelry was very impressive, especially my selection of Santa Maria Aquamarine. What made this particular gem popular is its deeply saturated blue hue. Some lower-quality Aquamarine will only pale when compared to this variety. Many of my customers never saw the Santa Maria flavor up close and personal - it is a truly beautiful thing to behold! I compare the blue color to the Mediterranean Ocean located off my other favorite beach in the world…the one in Cala Fornells  Mallorca, Spain. 

Every custom ring or pendant I created using a 3.00 to 8.00 carat S.M. Aqua lasted only a few days in my window showcase. Even after my pieces found a new home, scores of people would call inquiring about seeing it in the window only to be disappointed because it already sold. This trend told me to get busy and create another custom piece of Aqua jewelry. The cost of Aquamarine can be all across the board; pale and lifeless stones are relatively inexpensive, yet I have seen folks get duped overseas paying way too much for poor quality. The Santa Maria gemstone can cost around $800 to $1,000 a carat, and that all depends on availability, high demand plus low inventory = higher prices. Many times, my South American gem connection will show up empty-handed, or the gems are not to my liking. Sometimes, there is none to be had at all. One thing is for sure, their cost is always on the rise.

Although Emeralds are found on many continents, there are really only two main sources of Emeralds in the world - Colombia, South America is the main supplier followed by Zambia, Africa. As with most jewelers, I prefer the Colombian version. Fine Colombian Emeralds are the choice of gem connoisseurs around the world. Comparing the Colombian gem side by side with the Zambian gem, most will choose the Colombian because of its richer color. I’m not implying the Zambians are inferior - they can also be expensive. Once again, it comes down to personal taste and what you can afford. Lots of emeralds you see in lower-priced mall stores will be Zambian -they are far more affordable in smaller sizes. I recently showed a client a gem quality 4.20 carat oval shaped Colombian “Muso”* mined Emerald - its cost was a whopping $47,650! And a comparable 4.13 oval cut Zambian cost was $23,450. Both stones came with certificates. Just imagine the cost of a 10.00+ carat in this quality.

(*Emeralds mined from the South American Muso mine are considered the best in the world).

Owning an Emerald can be affordable if you don’t insist on gem quality. Most Emeralds you view up close will have lines or striations in the body of the stone - this is normal in most Emeralds; the more inclusions the less brilliant the gem will be. Avoid buying any with deep surface flaws or cracks you can see or feel on the surface. Another very important thing to remember is all Emeralds are fragile and very brittle - smacking your gem regardless of the size, against your car door could surely destroy it. It is only around 7.5 on the Mohs hardness scale (the diamond is a 10). If you are a clumsy, overly paranoid kind of person, then purchasing an expensive Emerald may not be your thing!

I offer several beautiful Emerald rings from both countries without the mind-blowing price tags. The same holds true for Aquamarine. There are so many shades of blue that are affordable - even a smaller-sized Santa Maria’s can fit a budget.

It’s hard for me to pick my favorite gem. In my world I work with so many kinds on a daily basis, buying and selling this and that, it becomes hard to keep track. My most memorable Emerald “Sale “was inadvertently to my daughter Lindsay. Sergio, my South American gem dealer, had called days before me saying he just put together a gorgeous platinum Emerald and Diamond Ring for my shop. It was a certified 4.12 carat octagon cut set in a stunning Art Deco (1920s) style diamond platinum mounting. I positively loved it, and the price was more than reasonable. I told him consider it SOLD! It arrived a week later while I was away on one of my many semi-retired sojourns. Lindsay opened the package when it arrived. She took one look at it and the ring went from the box to her finger and has been there since. When I returned and asked W.T.H. happened to the Emerald ring I was expecting? There it was, on my daughter’s finger! Her reply “quote, unquote,” MINE, MINE, MINE! And that was that. She immediately paid for it, and a quick, unprofitable sale closed! The joke was on me - she had conspired with Sergio a month or so earlier and designed the ring and had him create the mounting and set the stunning Emerald for her and her alone! She calls it her first piece of “Divorce Jewelry.” She bought it with the money from the sale of her no longer-needed engagement ring. Next time more on what to do with “Divorce Jewelry,” other than throwing it off the Jolly Bridge. Read all about it in her next “The Jeweler’s Daughter.”