Hotel La Casa del Mundo

Our approach by public boat, skimming over the cobalt blue water in the brilliant sunshine so common over Lake Atitlan, delivered a most romantic architectural vision. Halfway up the rock cliff was a large home surrounded by scattered smaller buildings, virtually clinging to the face interspersed with small flower rimmed patios and winding walkways.

This is the dream of Bill Fogarty & Rosy Valenzuela. Bill is American and Rosy is originally from Guatemala. The two adventurers met while working in Alaska, married, and eventually made their way to her home country. Rosy showed Bill her homeland on vacation, including a visit to Lake Atitlan. It is a 50 square mile body of water in a caldera bordered by three cone-shaped volcanoes: Atitlán, Tolimán, and San Pedro reaching over 10,000 feet. The last eruption of any of them dates back to 1853. There are 37 volcanoes in the country including three with recent eruptions. The lake’s estimated depth is a whopping 1,120 feet and as late as 1996 the sunken town of Samabaj was discovered at a depth of 115 feet.

Bill and Rosy were mesmerized by the beauty and the consistent moderate Spring climate. Almost perpetual sunshine of Lake Atitlan after the harsh weather of Alaska prompted them to investigate possibilities to buy property and build a home. Most land was beyond their budget, but in 1980 they bought a piece of rock bordering the lake. They returned to Alaska and their two sons, Sebastian and Benjamin, and began planning how they could turn their cliffside property into their dream home. Not until eight years later did they manage to convince local authorities. Bill, an engineer by trade, started to train local people to help them with the construction that previously had seemed impossible. The home was their dream, but they had to make a living as well so decided to make it a hotel. The family made the big move to Guatemala another eight years later in 1996 and officially opened the small hotel the following year. They fulfilled their dream and lived in a large one room apartment covering the top of the hotel for several years. Over a 20-year period they constructed individual buildings into the lake’s cliffside above the hotel and next to the main building. Each with several rooms, a shared bathroom/shower or private bathroom/shower, and terrace overlooking the lake, volcanoes and spectacular sunsets. They were connected to the main building by stone paths and steps carved in the mountain to the restaurant, and La Café Jardin del Sol. Far below, at the water’s edge, are the reception area, in-lake swimming pools, lounging terraces and a hot tub.

I have traveled regularly to Guatemala and always look forward to the interaction with the friendly people in this fascinating country. This land of “Eternal Spring,” is defined by a rugged beauty, especially in the mountains of farmlands, coffee plantations and scenic rural villages scaling the mountainsides. The scenery is quite exotic for a venue so close to home. The non-stop flight from Miami takes just under three hours.

In 2019 on a boat trip around Lake Atitlan we discovered La Casa Del Mundo, stopped there for a tasty lunch and we were able to get a reservation for the following year in one of their two large suites. Due to Covid we had to cancel our visit in 2020 but changed it to December of 2021. Despite the new regulations and continued Covid warnings we made it without any difficulties.

Over the years I have had the privilege to stay in some of the top five-star hotels in the world and this is a three star where the least expensive room starts at $41 a night! However, the service from the local staff, attention, cleanliness, Covid awareness, breakfast, lunch experience and presentation were top class. Every ingredient is bought at the indigenous market in Panajachel and transported by boat to the hotel on a daily basis, as that is the only access apart from ancient foot trails and stairs through the mountain. From personal experience I can attest to the freshness of the batido (smoothie), fruit salad and nacho chips with avocado and farmer’s cheese at a small rustic stone table on a patio hanging precipitately over the cliff.

I enjoyed meeting with Rosy, who still comes over from Panajachel on a regular basis. She explained that when their sons grew older, understandably they no longer enjoyed the remoteness and moved to Panajachel, the administration center for the lake area and a major tourist destination. She hoped we enjoyed our suite on top of the main building and explained that was where the family used to live. She mentioned they built one other large suite further along the cliff that was comparable to our room but hastened to say that really no room of the hotel is the same. All are decorated with traditional Mayan decor and collectibles picked up by Rosy on her travels and thereby creating an authentic, warm and welcome atmosphere. Not being the type to relax much, Bill and Rosy are presently constructing lodging for their staff who commute from neighboring villages by boat.

The postal address is El Jaibalito, Lake Atitlán, Guatemala, and there is a narrow trail along the water and another one higher above the hotel carved in the rock meandering a 15-minute walk to this small village. At the water’s edge is another surprise awaiting the visitors making their way along the towns on the lake. El Indigo is a restaurant that could have been transported from the streets of Paris. It is here that Iranian owner/chef, Nadetch Nilforoushan - Rhonda, for short - found her niche after traveling the world. She serves delectable specialties and drinks in a typical French atmosphere overlooking the lake. San Juan La Laguna is the next larger town on a tour of the eleven villages on Lake Atitlan and a favorite of my wife as she always returns home with hand-made souvenirs and original paintings from the myriad of art galleries. One shop façade I had noticed over the years had finally been completely restored and freshly painted into a beautiful mural. Lastly it is a must to continue a bit further along the lake to Santiago. The Church of Santiago Atitlan was built in 1547, features an interior different from anything else one expects in a church as it is a mix of Christian and Indigenous traditions, and the Saints are clothed in typical Mayan dress.

Return to La Casa del Mundo, or “Home of the World,” as it is so aptly named, and end the day with a beverage on the balcony or terrace each room offers to enjoy the spectacular sunsets over Lake Atitlan and the volcanoes. In a next issue of the 

Coastal Breeze I will take you to another “find” in Guatemala. Antigua, the old capital of the country is one of the most well-preserved Spanish Colonial cities I have ever visited.