Hang on to it Long Enough…

It’s no secret my presence in the jewelry business has spanned many decades, and the fads and styles that I have seen come and go were numerous - some were extremely popular and some complete failures. In fact, there is more bad than good and many I care not to remember. Now, some old trends are re-emerging.

The trends and fads that people will purchase and actually wear in public have certainly progressed and, in some cases, regressed in the aforementioned decades. I have a constant finger on the pulse, and my ear is always to the rail, so to speak, on what’s new in the industry. Monitoring the trends has always been interesting to me because one never knows or will predict what the future will bring. The recent advent and nonstop popularity of the lab-created diamond will put an interesting spin on the present state of the business.  

One interesting trend that was popular in the 1970s and 80s was the diamond insert ring. Those born after this time may not have a clue about this fashion statement. It was, quite simply, a combination of two guard rings connected together by two bottom bars or “straps” that spaced the two rings apart so you could “insert” your plain diamond engagement ring in the middle, all this to enhance the look of your simple engagement ring. Some “inserts” were simple designs, a couple of small diamonds set here and there. Then there were some that were completely extravagant and loaded with diamonds and or precious gemstones. My grandmother Josephine had an insert that was a real jaw-dropper. My uncle Ernest, a master goldsmith, made it for her in the early 70’s - I believe it had over four carats of diamonds and her center diamond was already over two and one-half carats, so you can only imagine what six carats plus of diamonds would look like on her finger! (She wore that thing daily back in the 70s riding on the Boston subway system - how she never got rolled I’ll never know?)

I can remember as a young apprentice working days and nights on end filing, sanding, setting diamonds and polishing all kinds of inserts until my finger bled. I was happy when that trend faded into the sunset years later. But guess what… It’s baaaack!

Yes, unbelievably, the style is making a comeback. I carry a few simple designs in the shop for the ladies that find their two freewheeling guard rings slide around the finger, and rarely do the diamonds remain face up! A simple insert cures the malady immediately.

Back in the day, diamond or initial gent’s rings were the norm for nearly every gentleman (so were felt fedora hats - you rarely saw an urban gentleman not wearing one in the 50s and 60s. Today, it’s the ball cap!) I have recently restored many old gent’s rings that were handed down from father to son or grandfather to grandson. To my surprise, the demand for men’s rings here on the island is nearly non-existent. I’m grateful my selection of diamond and colored stone rings for the ladies are constant selling pieces.     

Another old blast from the past style that is on fire in my shop is the “Tin Cup” or “Diamond Station Necklace.” These can be created simple or extravagant, and in many instances, the customer supplies the diamond, which will keep the cost of the necklace down.

Those of you who have either loose diamonds or unloved diamond jewelry lying around can have them reset into these stunning “you can wear them every day” contemporary neckpieces. 

The necklace is available in 14kt or 18kt. yellow or white gold and platinum if you prefer. Your diamonds or mine are bezel set and spaced an inch or so apart depending on the amount and size of the diamonds up to the front of your shoulder - makes no sense to set them behind your neck - in the front, they freely twist and sparkle with your every move.

I just completed two 2.00 carat plus station necklaces, one in white gold and another in yellow for two young ladies incorporating the diamonds from their recently departed grandmother’s wedding rings. They will be presented Christmas morning - it will be an emotional surprise presented to them by their grandfather. They will surely cherish these exquisite memorial pieces.

Another fad that is re-emerging is the threader earring. This is an earring that was popular about 15 years ago that you “thread” through your earlobe, and it dangles evenly in the front and the back of your ear. I just discovered several pairs of this style from an Italian manufacturer at the last Miami Jewelry Show - these are fun to wear. Then there were the full earplugs or tunnel phase of earwear? (I guess that’s what they were called). Mostly, young men were into this by having ghastly large holes in their lobes and then inserted these large plugs or through “tunnels.” It’s not my thing, and luckily, I never had any requests for them

As I mentioned before, with the advent of lab-created diamonds and the fact the cost for them has been dropping faster than the leaves in the fall, it will be interesting to see what the future fads will be. At some point, every Tom, Dick or Harriet will be able to afford and purchase three and four-carat “diamonds” at their local Walter- Marte and have them dripping from every appendage. That will be a sight to see! Happy Thanksgiving Ya’ll!

Richard Alan is a designer/goldsmith and owner of the Harbor Goldsmith, a multi-generation family business serving Marco Island, Naples and beyond since 1994. He welcomes your questions and comments about All That Glitters, harborgoldsmith@comcast.net.