Amsterdam – A Gem

Despite the Crowds Springtime in the Netherlands is highlighted by a blaze of brilliant colors from the bulb fields just southwest of the Dutch capital, Amsterdam. And in the same area is the most famous park of the Keukenhof with a thousand brilliant bulb flowers in every form and color of the rainbow. And nothing is more Dutch than standing at a roadside stand eating scrumptious unhealthy French fries with mayonnaise, raw Dutch herring, or a meat croquette. And if it is not the right time of the year for the bulb fields, flowering plants can be viewed lining the windowsills through the front windows of Dutch homes. Rarely are the drapes ever closed. Fresh flower stands can be found on many street corners at all times of the year. It is a common tradition in The Netherlands to arrive bearing a bouquet of flowers when visiting someone’s home.  

If it is not April, or May, my home country has so much else to offer. The wild nature of the North Sea viewed from the dunes and beaches along the 280 miles of coastline, the hills and valleys of the Veluwe, the lakes and picturesque old towns and villages of Friesland in the north, or the waterworks in the south, which are a testament to the ingenuity of the Dutch in claiming land from the sea. If you rent a car, stay on the well-maintained small roads or rent a bicycle because The Netherlands is the friendliest and most accommodating country in the world for cyclists. 

But no matter where you go, a visit to Amsterdam is a must. Despite all the news about overcrowding, the center of the city is still a paradise for walking, shopping, and enjoying the numerous cafes and bars. Just beyond a long line of people patiently waiting to enter a Lego store competing in popularity with all the famous European brand name shops on this extremely busy central Amsterdam pedestrian street, I turned right into a very short, narrow alley that dead-ended at a massive dark door flanked by white stone bricks, the street number 92 and Anno 1581. Above the door was a bas-relief of the same stone, a painting of people’s faces in the middle, and the coat of arms of the city of Amsterdam above it. I pushed the door open to enter a sea of tranquility.  

There were virtually no sounds around the perfectly groomed lawn accented with lovely bushes, trees, and flower beds. A brick walkway forms a circle around the square that was bordered by old, immaculately kept gabled homes and two mini churches, the Catholic Houten Huys, the oldest building in the city, and the English Reformed Church. The aforementioned door is only open to visitors from 9:30 AM to 6:00 PM. This small spot of heavenly serenity, called Begijn Hof, was originally a béguinage or home for lay women and dates to the Middle Ages. Today, the homes are privately owned. It seemed time stood still in this unusually quiet hidden treasure not even 200 feet from the Kalverstraat. This is one of the busiest pedestrian shopping streets in all of Europe and is the most popular part of the city. Amsterdam is struggling to reduce 23 million visitors a year to 20 million. The famous street begins close to the Central Railway Station that resembles a palace, and is split by the Dam Square, bordered by the Royal Palace, the formal home of the Dutch King. Standing in the street I listened to “Tulips from Amsterdam” and other famous Dutch songs from a typical street organ grinding out music in hopes of a small donation. At the end of the Kalverstraat is the famous “Munt Tower,” where the Dutch coins were minted in the 17th Century. Walk just beyond there and you are at the “Bloemenmarkt,” or flower market, along the Singel Canal.  

The center of Amsterdam is surrounded by 165 canals, or “grachten” in Dutch, more than double the canals in Venice. Sixty-two miles of waterways were built spanned by 1281 bridges in the 17th Century to ease transportation in the fast-growing city. Thus, it was nicknamed “Venice of The North.”   

Therefore, sightseeing is not only on foot but also by boat. Open boats, or glass-covered covered long-boats for inclement weather, are the most convenient and entertaining modes of sightseeing. On this day, tourists were joined by every Dutch person who managed to leave their chores for another day. It was an exceptional day with blue skies, bright sunshine, and temperature with just enough breeze to be comfortable.  

A day like that is a rarity in my native country, where wind and rain are the norm. The Dutch love the occasional sun and take every possible advantage of it. First came the windmills preventing water from overflowing the reclaimed land. As much as 20% of the country was claimed from the North Sea and Zuider Sea (now called IJselmeer). Wind turbines and massive sun panel fields dot the rural and coastal landscape and provide 38% of the country’s energy, originally provided by coal and natural gas. The Dutch venture out in any weather and make use of the almost 24 million bicycles for just over 18 million inhabitants in The Netherlands, proving the popularity of this mode of transportation. The Dutch commute and ride all over the country on special bike paths complete with bike traffic crossings and bicycle only signs. Be careful not to walk into a bike lane or turn to the right in your rental car, cutting off a bicyclist. They have priority in The Netherlands.  

Most people arrive by airplane at Schiphol Airport just outside the city. It is one of the oldest airports in Europe that opened 108 years ago as a military base and converted to commercial flights in 1920. 

The entire airport, including the runways, is built below sea level on the bottom of what was once Haarlemmer Lake, named after the nearby city of Haarlem. In 1852 it was drained, and the main terminal is 13 feet below sea level. But that was nothing new for the ingenious Dutch as their first reclamation of land from the sea dates to 1533. Schiphol is a so-called “quiet” airport as announcements are made only in case of delays and emergencies. Today, it is the third busiest in Europe. One hundred and four airlines fly there, originating from 97 countries. The terminal is light and airy, but there are very long walking distances between flights and terminals. If you have time, there is a maze of interesting shops and restaurants both inside and outside the restricted customs areas, and the world-famous Rijksmuseum has an annex here.