Beauty along the trail. Photo by Jeane Brennan

Long ago, if one knew the rules—or lack of rules—of survival, there was as much safety in the pioneer wilderness as there is now on a major downtown highway. I often try to imagine why those early pioneers ventured from north to south those many years ago, when dirt roads and paths, wild animals, and all sorts of difficulties in self-protection were the norm. What were their reasons for packing up the minimum of possessions, and for stepping out into the unknown, harsh and brutal wilderness of the Everglades?

As interest in South Florida began to become more prevalent, construction on the Tamiami Trail (the name is a combination of Tampa and Miami) began in 1915. It started, like most events in our lives, with a dream, an idea, a vision. Miami’s Captain James Franklin Jaudon first proposed a road connecting Florida’s Gulf and Atlantic Coasts, with plans on developing properties in the Everglades. Because of difficulties with financing, changes in routing and other reasons during the course of the following years, it was another seven years, in 1922, Barron Collier pledged to bankroll the completion of the Tamiami Trail, on condition that the State legislature establish a new county and name it after him.

Along the Tamiami Trail. Photo by Jeane Brennan

In 1928, the Tamiami Trail was considered a feat of engineering. It took thirteen years to build, cost $8 million dollars, and used 2.6 million sticks of dynamite. At that time no one considered the potential damage to the Everglades. Both the roadway and the canal, which was used for dirt to build the road, acted as a dam to block the natural water flow from Lake Okeechobee to the Florida Bay. Throughout these many subsequent years, the Army Corps of Engineers and the legislature have attempted to remedy the situation again and again.

Iron Rhino Saloon on the corner of CR29 and US41. Photo by Jeane Brennan

With all that in mind, I look forward to and love to turn east at Iron Rhino Saloon, at the corner of CR92 and US 41, and to head into the Everglades, whether in my Jeep or with the top down in my Miata. For me, the most beautiful portion of Tamiami Trail is between that corner and the Everglades City turnoff at CR29. However the day unfolds, whether it is bright beautiful and blue or the sky full with heavy rain-filled clouds, that ride can offer, if one can allow, beauty, peace, thankfulness and tranquility. Heading out into the Everglades without a firm destination in mind, who knows what the day may bring? May your travels be joyful and safe.

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Old Florida architecture fits in with the historic village of Goodland. Photo by Jeane Brennan

It is difficult to please everyone all the time. Sometimes compromises need to be made. Years ago, a vote was taken by the board members of the Goodland Civic Association regarding Goodland Boat Park. The sentiment and vote that was sent to the Collier County Commissioners was 9 to 0 that the land at the very end of Goodland Drive West would be developed into a boat park. Other possibilities for that land included development for a possible gated community of condominiums or single family homes. The saga is more complicated, and there is more to the story. Like most everything, there are varying opinions regarding the boat park. However, the end result is a quality constructed and beautiful public facility.

The official opening day of the boat park was August 20, however, a soft opening of the Goodland Boat Park was held Thursday evening, August 19, for Goodland residents. Collier County Parks and Recreation Director, Barry Williams, was on hand, along with Nancy Olson, Collier County Parks and Recreation Manager for Beaches and Water. Approximately 25 Goodlanders attended.

Ed Fullmer, Mike Barbush, President of the GCA, Pam and John Stop check out the Goodland Boat Park.

The boat park will house 75 boat trailer parking spaces and 16 regular vehicle parking spaces. The main surface of the parking area is grass. There is also a salt water retention pond where a multitude of birds have already found a home. A boardwalk for fishing and a continuation of a walking path run along a good portion of the perimeter of the park. There are 22 boat slips of which 12 are wet slips and can be rented monthly. A covered picnic pavilion, that will house grills and tables and benches, may be reserved for a fee. An indoor community room and game room is available. Goodlanders have the opportunity and choice to close the boat park for three weekends during the course of the year for Goodland events.

Rich and Glenna Jones, Ed Fullmer and Jim Graham in front of the Ship Store at the Goodland Boat Park. Photos by Jeane Brennan

The Ship Store will carry shrimp and frozen bait, salt water fishing tackle, ice, boat batteries, drain plugs, oil, grocery items, and other necessities. Nancy Olson said, “There will be a fair trade gift shop in the store called Fair Harbor. Gift items for sale will come from all over the world and are made by women in small communities.” The proceeds from the sale of these will go back to the women who purchase land, livestock, and whatever is needed, thus encouraging families within the villages to become self-sufficient. Olson goes on to say, “One of the ship’s store vendors carries a line of products from which the proceeds go toward not-for-profit organizations.” The snacks are color coded with each color denoting a charity. For instance, if a pink bag of chips is purchased a portion of the proceeds will go to Breast Cancer Research.”

Photo by Jeane Brennan

The Collier County’s Coastal Zone Management Department supervised the construction project. Day to day operation of the park will be managed by the County’s Parks and Recreation Department. BCBE Construction Co., Inc was the general contractor and Johnson Engineering was the design consultant for this $1.9 million dollar project.

Olson proudly said that The Goodland Boat Park is “a marina with a purpose.” The Ship Store hours are from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. daily. Park Hours are from 7 a.m. to sunset daily. Launch fee is $5.00 with the opportunity to purchase an annual $75 non-commercial boat pass. The speed limit in Goodland is 25 miles an hour and Goodland is a golf cart friendly community. When you check out the Goodland Boat Park, remember to honor and respect this very special residential village community.

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Entrance to Collier County's Tigertail Beach. Photos by Jeane Brennan

Most Marco Island residents know about Tigertail Beach. It is in the news every once in a while for this reason, or that. But when is the last time you were there? There is so much to do on Marco Island and in the vicinity that it is sometimes difficult to know where to begin.

Driving up to the beach entrance, I knew all was well by the friendly greeting I received. Lee, the Booth Attendant, has been working at the Tigertail booth part-time for four years and I was amazed by how friendly and happy she seemed. She waved me through, since I had a Collier County Beach Parking Permit. Otherwise, the fee for entering all Collier County beach parking lots is $8.00. Once in the park at Tigertail, there is bountiful parking, and boardwalks facilitate easy access to the beach from almost anywhere.

Comfortable seating for lunch or a snack at Tigertail Beach Cafe.

The complete facility is comfortable, well constructed and beautiful. Tony Smith has had the Tigertail concession for twenty-two years. This includes not only the café, but cabanas, kayaks and other water vehicles. Stepping up onto the inviting boardwalk, to the left is a state of the art playground separated into two areas: one for tiny tots and one for elementary age children. To the right of the playground is the Tigertail Beach Café, specializing in their most popular item, Veggie Wrap. On the menu is ice cream, coffee, other drinks and grilled hamburgers, hot dogs and chicken sandwiches. Tony said his wife is Italian and adds her special touch to the menu! The table and chairs with colorful umbrellas on the deck, overlooking Florida fauna and the beach beyond, is very inviting. Packed lunches can be ordered for the beach, boating and kayaking. The café phone number is 239-389-8414.

Educational rest stop before heading onto the beach.

On the boardwalk to the beach is an educational area rest stop. Subjects include The Mystery of Ocean Tides, Hurricane Catching the Current, Types of Fish in the Gulf of Mexico, The Everglades Eco System at Risk, and a Marine Timeline which notes the time it takes for various items to decompose. The Cousteau Society estimates that six million tons of waste enters the oceans every year. For instance, it takes an aluminum can 200 years to decompose, a regular disposable diaper 450 years, a biodegradable diaper one year, a painted wooden stick thirteen years, and a plastic bottle never!

Children's playground is state of the art for all ages.

Tony is from London but as a young boy was in America for a while. He witnessed the Apollo 14 taking off and told me that was the day that he fell in love with America. He was a soldier in England before coming to America to live. Besides being responsible for the concession at Tigertail, Coach Tony is head soccer coach at Charter Middle School and assistant coach for the girls’ soccer team at Lely

At the beach are cabanas and a slew of water vehicles. Tony said that, because of all the lagoons and the inlet, the area is one of the best for kayaking in Collier County. Kayaking the waterway north you are on part of the great Florida Birding Trail. The park is offering a special kayak price from now until the rest of the year: If you pay for a kayak for one hour at 9 a.m., you get four hours free. Tony also mentioned that the best kayaking in the Tigertail area is two hours before high tide.

Tigertail Beach looking south.

The park is open from 8 a.m. to dusk and the concession is open from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. The fee, without a permit, is $8. A Collier County Beach Parking Permit can be obtained at the Marco Library on S. Heathwood. All you need is I.D. and proof of Collier County residency. I showed my car registration to the helpful librarian. The permit is accepted at all Collier County Beach parking lots such as Marco Island’s South Beach County parking lot, Vanderbilt, Barefoot Beach, and Clam Pass. If you have a beach permit, you won’t need to feed any coins into the parking meters at the beach parking lots. A non-residential beach parking permit is sold at Tigertail for $50.

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Pathway surrounds the entire lake, rental@zkscooters.com. Submitted

Living as a year around resident on Marco Island, working, raising a family and going about our daily chores, it is easy to forget the beauty around and the very special and important points of interest that are nearby. No, I am not including the luscious white sandy beach hugging the waters of the Gulf of Mexico. And I am not even talking about the Everglades and the miraculous backwaters of the Ten Thousand Islands that forever beckons.

In our very own neighborhood are a triad of properties that welcome all ages, any interest and a variety of lifestyles. Within walking distance are unlimited possibilities and no excuse for boredom or dullness of life. Mackle Park, the Marco Island Library, and the Marco Island Historical Museum are just yards from one another and offer not only a broad spectrum of activities, but are superior in every avenue and category.

Frank E. Mackle Community Park is not just for kids, even though the state of the art playground is a wonderland for youngsters. Sports fields, basketball courts and a huge variety of classes and workshops are available to the public of all ages. The path surrounding the lake is perfect for vigorous walking or tranquil strolling. The dog park, Canine Cove, is populated by a huge segment of Marco’s population….. and also, attached by lease, are the dog’s owners! For thorough information go to the web site, www.cityofmarcoisland.com and click Parks and Recreation. Mackle Park is located at 1361 Andalusia Terrace. The phone number is 239-642-1666. Hours are Monday through Saturday 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. and Sunday from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Within walking distance from the park, is the Marco Island Library, located at 210 S. Heathwood. Libraries aren’t solely home for books any more. A large selection of music, books and movies on CD are available. Special programs, workshops, lectures and films are offered throughout the year to Marco’s residents and guests. Using the library via the Internet is common in this day and age. There is no reason to be fearful of using the library because of that, though, since employees at Marco’s library are definitely ‘user friendly’ and are helpful and amiable in every way. For information call 239-394-3272. Hours open are Monday through Thursday 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. and Friday from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. The library is closed Saturday and Sunday.

Right across the street from the library is the new state of the art Marco Island Historical Museum. I remember when the organization of fundraising for the new museum first began years ago. It was just a thought. A dream. Time flies whether we want it to or not. Now, it is imperative that each and every one visit the result of this endeavor in which so many participated. The architecture, inside and out, is absolutely well thought out and fine-looking. It couldn’t be more beautiful. Carlton Ward, Jr.’s photographic exhibit of the Florida Cowboy will be displayed until the end of August.

The museum is located at 180 S. Heathwood Dr. and for information call 239-389-6447 or go to www.themihs.org. Museum hours are Wednesday from 2 to 4 p.m. and Saturdays 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

At our fingertips is a world of opportunity. Within this 4 mile by 7 mile island we can pretty much learn, and do, and be all we want. Enjoy!

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It was at the Phil in Naples when I first realized I loved the ballet. That was the time, nineteen years ago, when I had to pay my youngest son, Michael, who was then fifteen, $10 to come with me and an extra $10 to wear a tie. My hope that he would at least love the experience turned out to be fulfilled. The recent brilliant performance of Blood, Sweat and Tears adds to the relatively short list of Philharmonic events I have been privileged to experience.

After a well orchestrated fundraising campaign headed by Myra Daniels, the Phil opened 95% debt-free in 1989, and has grown each season since. Unlike most other art centers, The Phil features both the performing and the visual arts and is also home to a resident orchestra employing 49 resident musicians led by music director Jorge Mester.The Phil is host to more than 400 events year round, including adult education programs, summer children’s workshops, and presentations. “In addition to the 1,425-seat main hall and a 282-seat black box theater, the Phil has four museum-quality art galleries, which showcase traveling and exclusive exhibition,” states the web page, www.thephil.org. “The Phil has 420 full and part-time employees, including a full-time administrative staff of 80, as well as several hundred volunteers.”

Marco Island’s art scene reverberates with and parallels The Phil’s observations that “the arts serve many purposes. They can be entertaining and they can be enlightening. They can be educational and they can be fun. The arts help to nurture and grow the community.”

The Philharmonic Center for the Arts is a non-profit organization. The mission of The Phil is “to enlighten, educate and entertain people of all ages and backgrounds in Southwest Florida by presenting the very best of the visual and performing arts.”

Three Dog Night, award winning band of the ‘70s will be performing one night only July 31. To contact the Philharmonic Center for the Arts call 239-597-1900. The Phil is located at 5833 Pelican bay Blvd in N. Naples west of 41.

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The county owned marina at Port of the Islands Resort is well kept and accessible.

The gorgeous Port of the Island Resort features a breakfast buffet 7 days a week from 7 to 11 am. It only takes about 20 minutes to drive from Marco. I was fortunate to travel by boat, however, departing from a marina in Goodland and arriving and docking at the well kept county owned docks at the marina at Port of the Islands Resort.  My captain was willing to abide by my every whim, at least that is how he made me feel. Drive around and check out the various marinas and ship stores on Marco, in Goodland, the Isles of Capri or Everglades City to find the licensed southwest Florida boating captain that will best suit your needs.

A knowledgeable backwater guide can tell many stories and history of life in this endless stream of islands.  Most of all the land throughout that portion of the Everglades is government owned, the boat captain told me. And then there are the countless tales, true or not, of bootlegging, drug running, and of the many hermits who have set up stakes on Dismal Key. Traveling the waterways takes experience and knowledge of the backwaters because of minimal water depth, sand bars, and the treacherous oyster bars. There wasn’t much obvious wild life that day, but the beauty and the reflection of the clouds, the sky, and the mangroves while meandering through the backwaters of the ten thousand islands was tranquil and beautiful. I was privy to one private fishing hole but could never, despite all manner of torture, reveal where it is. To the unseasoned backwater traveler, the mangrove islands initially all look the same. Breakfast at the resort was excellent and the cost was appropriate.  The 3 mile canal leading into Port of the Islands is a no wake zone and manatee protected, so travel is slow. Because life can be so hectic and uncertain at times, my only advice is to relax and sink into the beauty.

The houseboats at Flamingo Marina in Everglades National Park. Photos by Jeane Brennan

For my second “jaunt“, I received a spontaneous invitation to travel by houseboat into the depths of the southeastern most points of the ten thousand islands at Everglades National Park at Flamingo. Of course I could not resist. The ship store, marina, and concession in the park are on the edge of where the ten thousand islands open into the Gulf. The rented houseboat had many comforts like air conditioning, microwave, and bathroom facilities! However, we are in fact in the unadulterated life of the Everglades. We are the guests. There can be no predetermined and specific expectation.  At this point the giant horseflies and mosquitoes, especially at dusk, and the hundreds buzzing around the protected boat throughout the night were great reminders of how one needs to adapt to one’s life experiences. Travel light and be prepared with compass, first aid kit, a sarong that has many uses, and plenty of water.  I loved every bit of this adventure.  It was beautiful and fun. The boat could sleep 6 and I totally recommend this Flamingo Adventure ideally taken in the fall, winter, or spring. This trip is enhanced if someone in your party knows boating, chart reading, and the water rules.  I am hopeful and looking forward to Kathleen Douglas’ narrative of the trip in the next issue of Coastal Breeze News for she will go into more detail regarding this houseboat Everglades adventure. For information regarding Flamingo Marina call 239-695-3101. The marina is open year around.

Conveniences abound in the Everglades.

If you are unable to get to the two exotic spots above, my next everglades jaunt is much closer to home: Walking vigorously from 6 to 7 am most days of the week, my favorite route is walking up the Goodland Bridge during that 1 to 3 minute window, when the sun is just peeking and rising above the Everglades in the distant horizon.  The total scene feels as if I am in heaven on earth. I recommend the experience to anyone.

I encourage you to keep your eyes and ears open for out of the way twists and turns in the road and to touch, to hold, and to love the air, the colors, the horizon, and the history of southwest Florida and the Everglades.

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Check out the Skunk Ape exhibit! PHOTOS BY JEANE BRENNAN

On the nearest tourist brochure there are usually a dozen activities from which to choose, and filling up the day with planned events seems to be what it is all about when one organizes the day or even a vacation. In this busy and goal ridden life we lead there are times when not having a plan of action tends to be just as, or more, relaxing, productive, and fun.

Allotting time for a frivolous day outing, heading east onto Tamiami Trail, is possibly just the answer replacing the busy mind with one focused on beauty; and even, spontaneously, recognizing solutions to one’s day to day concerns. Crumpling and flinging an itinerary into the nearest recycling bin might be just the solution for a renewed outlook to the day’s, or life’s, issues.

The planning and structure of Marco Island, the largest of the ten thousand islands is beautiful. There are unique shops and great restaurants. Well maintained parks and paths are available to all and there are many activities from which to choose. Our white sandy beach, with its several access points, is a picture of paradise. However, to know and to feel southwest Florida, to see the beauty and the colors and the peace, one just needs to drive 30 to 60 minutes east. That hour can open the door to a world that tells a totally different story.

There is much to embrace in driving into the Everglades, whether it is just the drive that is tranquil and satisfying, or uncovering an adventure right around the next bend.

Rounding the bend, Port of the Islands Resort is and oasis of beauty and comfort. PHOTOS BY JEANE BRENNAN

Port of the Islands Resort and Marina on the south side of US-41 is always a great stop. I look forward to just walking into the lobby of the resort and love the sense of history and serenity. It is reported a ghost resides in one of the rooms on the second floor but I need to investigate further to find out the rest of that story. Go to www.poihotels.com for specific times the bar and restaurant are open. The Port of the Island’s Marina and Ship Store couldn’t be nicer, and the waterway, home of many manatees, has direct access to the gulf.

Across the way, on the north side of 41, is the Port of the Islands Gun Club; a Skeet, Trap, and Sporting Clays Shooting Club. On Sunday, June 6th, the club is hosting a NSCA sanctioned sporting clay tournament. The Swamp Divas is a shooting team of friends who compete in another venue and there is rumor of a women’s league forming which sounds like fun and, also, very appealing.

Continuing on Tamiami Trail, Fakahatchee Boardwalk in Big Cypress is a gorgeous example of a subtropical strand swamp, exquisite as the sun streaks down through the trees, highlighting the fern, bromeliads, orchids, and scurrying animals. There is an active “alligator hole” at the end of the boardwalk with adult and baby alligators, turtles, and many species of birds, including woodpeckers, owls, hawks and in the swamp forest there is a bald eagle’s nest.

Continuing the drive, tempting airboat excursion opportunities are available on the south side of the Trail. Just stopping in to say “hi,” checking out these unique places of business, can be very interesting, and can cement and instill the Everglades experience.

The flavor and pioneer spirit is evident as one drives on US 41 to Joanie’s Blue Crab Cafe.

Driving past the turnoff to Everglades City and continuing east on US-41, imagine life and the Indians living and surviving in this rugged land. Imagine the early settlers and wonder why they choose to journey to this remote and tough southern point. The smallest post office in the U.S.; Joanie’s Blue Crab Restaurant; the Skunk Ape Headquarters; and Clyde Butcher’s Studio are at our fingertips less than an hour away.

Without a timetable the choice is yours to do whatever you want. Enjoy the spontaneity and the drive into the Everglades. To your day’s agenda add exploration for untold adventure and beauty.

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The treasure of finding and experiencing the historic Anchor Inn added to the pleasure of discovering Boca Grande. Photos by Jeane Brennan

Using not even a full tank of gas in my little Miata convertible and traveling only 2 hours, the historic village of Boca Grande, the main town on Gasparilla Island, is our destination today. With reservations at the historic Anchor Inn and access to their bright red golf cart, two whole days were spent traversing this quaint, peaceful, and beautiful locale. Because the Anchor Inn is located in the middle of town and using the Inn’s golf cart for transportation, I took a quick glance at my dream laddened white Miata with tan convertible top every once in a while, but that was it.

Along main street the approximately 500 year around residents and about 3000 winter residents take advantage of the art league, historical society, community center and unique shops and art galleries. Easy beach access is available at most every intersection and the 7 miles of white sandy beach and lush tropical fauna stretching along the Gulf Coast side of the island gives a whole new meaning to the word “paradise.”

There are no stop lights or no cemented high rises in Boca Grande. There are no fast food chains or billboards, creative or otherwise. The shops throughout the village are mainly original or renewed with thoughtful construction and the main portion of the community is in the National Historic Register. Staying at the Anchor Inn which was built in the late 1920’s as a boarding house was so very appropriate and added to the peace and charm that permeated my mini vacation. Whatever stress I brought to Boca Raton was quickly eliminated after stepping out onto my porch and diving into the silky warm waters of the private swimming pool.

Whidden's Marina, a rare find on Gasparilla Island, owned by the 5th generation of islanders.

A mile or two south of Boca Grande at the tip of Gasparilla is the Boca Grande Lighthouse, the oldest building on the island overlooking Boca Grande Pass (Big Mouth), one of the deepest natural channels in Florida. During this time of year, late spring, tarpon congregate in mass to feast on the abundance of sea life provided by the waters of the estuaries fed by the Myakka River, the Peace River and into Charlotte Harbor before spawning into the Gulf of Mexico. Fisherman come from all over the world to fish this pass during the tarpon late spring season.

It is necessary to enjoy life. I realize we need to fulfill obligations. I know we have issues to resolve. However, without passion, without love, without beauty, what is our world, what is our life composed of? Check out Boca Grande on Gasparilla Island. It is absolutely beautiful. For information about Anchor Inn call 800-741-3074 or go to their website, www.anchorinnbocagrande.com. It is charming. It is comfortable. It is an accurate example of, with comfort, of what southwest Florida must have been like in days gone by.

For great reading about the history, fact and fiction, about Gasparilla Island go to Craig Woodward’s columns, Twice Told Tales, on line, at Coastalbreezenews.com for fun (CBN issue March 26) and facts (CBN issue April 9). Thank you for reading the Coastal Breeze News.

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Raiford Starke, Chef Jack, and Joanie Griffin enjoying a satisfying snack. Photos by Jeane Brennan

Joanie’s Blue Crab Café in Ochopee on Tamiami Trail hasn’t changed much since Joanie and her late husband bought the property almost 30 years ago. Traveling east about 40 minutes from Marco Island, Joanie’s is right around the bend from the smallest post office in the United States. My first introduction to Joanie’s, food wise, was the cactus salad. That was many years ago. Now days, along with good food, cold drinks and great Everglades’s ambiance, thrilling artists and “back road” talent play at Joanie’s. Raiford Starke performs regularly, as well as Pete Gallagher, Mark Wesley, and Mike Martin. Local art grace the walls and the wide expanse of the Everglades surrounds the perimeter. One could describe Joanie’s as a road-stop diner, similar to hundreds of other road-stop diners throughout America.  History, color, function, stories galore, love and life play out at road-side diners and Joanie’s Crab House is no exception.

As one drives out into the wide open space of the Everglades, it is easy to imagine years not too long ago well worn paths, Indian villages, and Model A Fords on primitive roads braving holes, ruts, and gators gracing the landscape. There might not be too many Model A Fords now and the holes and ruts of Tamiami Trail are minimal, but Indian villages, gators and paths from wild hog, bear, deer and other Everglades “residents” highlight the beauty and huge expanse of the Everglades. Dark harsh summer skies filled with lightning, wind and rain and, then, heat, humidity and mosquitoes, for some reason, still lure people to these furthest points of southwest Florida.

Raiford Starke belting out one tune after another at Joanie’s.

Even after all these years living and working in the Everglades, Joanie said, “I still love it. Boating into the ten thousand islands and being in this beauty is miraculous. I care and treat my guests and employees as family. Joanie’s is a place where you can come to, relax and be comfortable. I am fortunate,” Joanie continued, “that guests who ate here 10, 15 years ago, still make a point to stop and say ‘hello’ and it is like old home week all over again.”

The day I drove out to see Joanie, Raiford Starke was performing. I am always thankful of my good fortune. While listening to Raiford belt out one song after another, Chef Jack, formerly of Havana Cafe, brought out a grilled portabella sandwich draped with roasted red peppers, sundried tomatoes, fried zucchini, olive oil and garlic. I wasn’t surprised when he mentioned that he has added an Italian flavor to the menu and daily specials. Most always on the menu are fresh fish specials, gator fritters, calamari, Joanie’s beautiful and colorful salads, sandwich choices and delicious fries galore. Chef Kenny is master of the kitchen on weekends.

It’s difficult to stay seated at Joanie’s place. Looking out the screen door into the Everglades is too beautiful for words and that sight could easily be one of the many paintings hanging on her walls. Dozens of pieces of art neatly placed were created by her sister, Jeanie Ortega. Dozens of bottle art hanging from the rafters were given to her throughout the years by a northern gentleman traveling through. Three times a year a German cartoonist drops in. Sometimes he brings his jazz band, other times friends and family or sometimes he’s just traveling by himself. Joanie now has, though, a collection of his cartoons pinned to his very own wall in the restaurant; cartoon art that he has sent and given her over the years.

It is always hard to leave Joanie’s Blue Crab Cafe and head back to city life. Joanie told me as I was leaving, “You couldn’t get me out of here with dynamite. I am glad I work here every day. I love it here.” For up to date information call Joanie at 239-695-2682. Address for Joanie’s Blue Crab Café is 39395 Tamiami Trail East, Ochopee, Florida.

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Chef Annie, Lauren and Jenny create luscious meals at Chef's Express. Photos by Jeane Brennan

No one can know what all the reasons were in which people chose to explore and settle new land. We can only imagine. However, a common thread we all experience at one time or another is that we all leave what is known and step forward into the unknown. Faith, hope, curiosity, or a vision of a better life, I am sure, are included as components as that first step is taken.

The area of Old Marco is located towards the north western end of Marco Island and was home to Frank Cushing’s famous archeological expedition in 1896. Old Marco was the main area of Marco’s pioneer settlement and seafood industry in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s. “Not many realize,” Joe Charde of Exit Charde Realty said “is that the area of Old Marco is one of the several areas that the Mackle Brothers did not buy as part of the development of modern day Marco.”

Great information and displays at the Museum at Olde Marco in the Shops at Olde Marco.

Included in Old Marco are historic buildings, interesting shops and great restaurants running along Bald Eagle. Advertised as “Marco’s secret spot” are the Shops at Olde Marco. The Shops at Olde Marco, like most treasures, are well hidden. At the end of Bald Eagle towards the Snook Inn the road takes a sharp left. Although signage is at a minimum, The Shops are located behind Café de Marco Restaurant. “The Shops of Old Marco were originally built as a hotel,” Charde said.

In the Shops at Olde Marco exists The Museum at Olde Marco, a branch of the Marco Island Historical Society. Located on the second floor of this historic building, the museum is open and free to the public from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. every day. The pictorial displays and artifacts show a colorful and well executed bird’s eye view of Marco Island, going back to the Calusa Indians thousands of years ago. An outdoor stairwell in the front of the building runs right up to the front door of the museum and an elevator at the opposite end of the Shops is accessible as well.

The Shops at Olde Marco.

The Shops of Olde Marco have gone through many incarnations throughout the years. Now, mainly because of the vision and hard work of Chef Annie and her staff, as well as Larry Clark (owner of A Nice Box), the colorful buildings with the patio covered by a multitude of festive umbrellas, and a bubbling pond have transformed the ambiance. The Shops are now a relaxing venue where good food and browsing island style is paramount. Chef’s Express, Lee Be’s Fish Market, A Nice Box, Amantea Gallery, In the Light Studio and Gallery, A Style that Makes It hair salon, international artist, Malenda Trick’s workshop and showroom and the offices of Coastal Breeze News have changed this well kept secret into a targeted destination.

Near The Shops is the Old Marco Inn and that establishment, too, is an important part of the formation and history of Marco Island. Captain Bill Collier brought his wife and nine children to Marco in 1870 and in 1896 opened a 20 room hotel which is the current Old Marco Inn. Walking into the restaurant and lounge area of the Inn, all along the hallway’s wall, is a historic pictorial of fisherman’s tales noted on the scales of tarpon dating from the early to mid 1900’s.

The adventurer, the mercenary, the outlaw, the outdoorsman, or the family whose sole desire was to homestead their land of their own, isn’t much different from one part of the country to another; from one era in time to another. I am wishing you safe travels as you venture in your life from one point to another.

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Rookery Bay entrance. Photos by Ed Bridle.

Surrounding Marco Island, evidence of true unadulterated vistas of southwest Florida exists thanks to those individuals many years ago who had the foresight and made the effort to officially designate these lands for protection. And thanks to those now who spend their time and energy to continue protecting and loving these precious areas. Friends of Fakahatchee, Friends of Rookery Bay and volunteers and rangers at Collier Seminole State Park have a passion and desire to see the flow of the land, the colors, the fauna and the animals continue to reign supreme at these nature preserves.

Hundreds of thousands of acres of strands of the rare royal palm, Cypress, and mangrove swamp are protected from encroachment. Bald Eagles, alligators, wild hog, and hundreds of other species of animals find haven in this unique landscape. Rare orchids, bromeliads, ferns and plants that solely live on air and moisture survive. Strangler figs growing into giant trees, snakes, butterflies and beautiful birds of all sort are within our grasp and priceless beyond all imagination.

The Butterfly Garden at Rookery Bay is a great experience.

Rookery Bay Reserve is composed of over 100,000 acres located at the northern end of the Ten Thousand Islands.  It remains one of the few undisturbed mangrove estuaries in North America. “The mission of the Reserve,” noted from their website, www.rookerybay.org “is to provide a basis for informed coastal decisions through land management, restoration, research and education. The Reserve works in partnership with local communities to promote coastal stewardship.”

Enticing programs at Rookery Bay include Munching in the Mangroves, Seashells of Southwest Florida, Where Rivers Meet the Sea, Skulls and Bones, Slithering Snakes, Manatees and Marching Molars, Native Orchids of Southwest Florida, Native Plants and More, Oceans of Life, Wet and Wild Water birds, and Sharks: Fact or Fiction. Daily programs usually run about 45 minutes and are offered Monday through Thursday at 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. and are included with admission.

Guided kayak tours, continually changing exhibits, classes, workshops and fundraising for continued growth and success are offered at Rookery Bay.

The Batfish Bash March 27 presented by Friends of Rookery Bay is the next big fundraising event. Dancing the Batfish Boogie and rockin’ to the music of Raiford Starke featuring J Robert, eating Old Florida style fare and bidding at the silent auction items like shark tagging highlight the evening. The event will be held at the Rookery Bay Environmental Learning Center not even 15 minutes away from Marco. Call 239-262-0750 for tickets.

It is forever amazing how much beauty and life and information is available at our very fingertips. If only we could put a rein on time and our days could be twice as long.

The Rookery Bay National Estuarine Research Reserve is managed by the Florida Department of Environmental Protection’s Office of Oceanic and Aquatic Areas. Drive across the bridge off the island on 951 for about 12 minutes. Look for Tower Road. Turn left. Call 239-417-6310 or email:  HYPERLINK “mailto:info@rookerybay.org” info@rookerybay.org for additional information.

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The family of Linda and lou Van Meter with daughter Jennifer and granddaughter Arden. (Photo by Linda Van Meter)

Goodland, especially during the winter season, is a bit more active as neighbors migrate from all points beyond and once again meet and greet one another. The Goodland Civic Association (GCA) is the main community organization and is one of the many ways for the people of Goodland to care for one another and the community in which they live.  The meeting hall is located on Mango Avenue and the membership meets the third Tuesday of each month for a potluck dinner and meeting.  The GCA’s next event will be their famous pancake breakfast Saturday and Sunday, March 6 and 7.  The buffet breakfast cost $5 for adults and $3 for children.  A community garage sale is also highlighted that same weekend starting at 8 a.m. both mornings.

The Liar’s Club, painting with Sara Jane, the guys who meet for coffee, the early morning fishermen, and those who bump into each other at the post office interact with genuine gladness of being with one another adding to the community flavor and the strength that is keeping Goodland a favorite place to live and to visit.

The Goodland Gals (taken on Feb 11, 2010 at Joanie Fuller's home where we all enjoyed her famous homemade red velvet cake) pictured are from left to right: Anna Popour, Evelyn Cook, Linda Van Meter, Kasey Knoebel, Agatha Norton, Ruth Bowers, Gail Kahoun. Seated: Sonia Miller, Joanie Fuller. (Photo by Linda Van Meter)

The Goodland Gals is another group that makes a point to interact and add that extra bit of light to one another’s lives.  Linda Van Meter has this to say about the Goodland Gals: “We are just a group of gals who love Goodland.  We have no agenda.  We are not political.  We’re just supportive of each other and our community.  We get together in each other’s homes each Thursday afternoon ‘in season’ just to visit with each other and talk about whatever comes up.  We have varied interests and experiences.  Some of us live here all year and some are winter visitors who we miss and who we love to see once again.”  Linda goes on to say, “Having fun with my friends and family, living a simple life, is what’s really important to me.”

Goodland, like Ochopee, Everglades City and just driving along Tamiami Trail, is a remnant of how life in southwest Florida must have been with beauty, struggle and an obvious sense of history.  Pictures on the walls of the Old Marco Lodge and Crab House depict a simpler, yet more rugged life not that long ago.  Take time to imagine what the past must have been like and the opportunity to get to know this precious place of Goodland.

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Big Cypress Bend Boardwalk (Photo by Jeane Brennan)

The boardwalk is part of the Fakahatchee Strand State Preserve which is 20 miles long and 3 to 5 miles wide reaching from Alligator Alley south past the Tamiami Trail and into the Ten  Thousand  Islands.   Information from the website, fakahatcheefriends.com, notes that the strand is the “main drainage slough of the southwestern Big Cypress Swamp and contains the largest stand of royal palms and the largest concentration and variety of orchids in North America.”  The web site tells of the history of logging precious hardwoods during WWII and during the post WWII housing boom of the 1950s.  The Fakahatchee Strand became a State Park in 1974. This protected area is home to rare and endangered animals such as the Everglades mink, Florida panther, the black bear, wood stork and the mangrove fox squirrel.

The Big Cypress Bend Boardwalk is 1.2 miles round trip and informational plaques are posted throughout the walk noting the bald cypress, the royal and sabal palms, and the variety of bromeliads and ferns. The area is a birdwatcher’s haven with sightings of woodpeckers, owls, hawks, warblers, and pileated woodpeckers.  An active eagle’s nest is visible and turtles, an occasional snake, and lizards are often sighted. At the end of the boardwalk is an ‘alligator’ hole and depending upon the time of year and the warmth of the sun, alligators and their babies can be seen lazily basking on the bank of the pond.

The Seminole Indian Store sells authentic clothes and crafts. (Photo by Jeane Brennan)

A Seminole Indian store is adjacent to the boardwalk housing Seminole crafts and wares.

The Friends of Fakahatchee is a not-for-profit organization whose volunteers lead tours at the boardwalk, raise funds for education and exhibitions and also take part in the Big Cypress Bend maintenance.  For information regarding their organization and their many activities go to their website, www.friendsoffakahatchee.org.

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Running into friends at the Goodland post office is a normal activity. (Photo by Jeane Brennan)

This is a short trip that definitely is worth its weight in gold.  We aren’t talking about the Pony Express carrying untold treasure, letters from loved ones, or tales of woe to those adventurers exploring new land.  We are talking about the tale of the Fountain of Youth riding right alongside the Goodland Post Office.  It sounds a bit bizarre, even to me, but the story of the Fountain of Youth was told to me by Elhanon Combs, the recent private proprietor of MarGood RV Resort Park.

There is a stop sign at that corner of Little Bar. Turn right.  Park somewhere.  You are on foot now.  Just take a moment to enjoy where you are.

Judy Pritchard, Goodland Postmaster. (Photo by Jeane Brennan)

You might want to go into the post office first. You can’t miss it.  It is on the east side of the road.  Talk about beauty being in the eye of the beholder: Judy Pritchard, Goodland postmaster, is living proof of beauty throughout.  Murals painted by Goodland artists grace the walls and in Judy’s haven, plants, chimes, and tranquility reign.  Practically speaking, there is very rarely a line waiting for service if you get there after 10:30 a.m. or 11 a.m.

On the west side of the street, right across from the post office is an alley leading to the Mar Good Park.  Take that walk on the wild side. Use your imagination and picture park model trailers and fifth wheels packed tight during the winter months housing travelers from all points north re-discovering  friendship and camaraderie.  Elhanon loved Mar Good and put together a museum like no other. Chuckles Chickee Bar overlooking the bay was home to Goodland friends and visitors lucky enough to find this out-of-the-way watering hole.

Steve Kaplan of Carter Dock and Pile, picking up his mail. (Photo by Jeane Brennan)

Elhanon told many stories.  After he told me to eat a berry from a near-by tree making my mouth pucker for about three hours, I was a little leery about some of the things he shared with me.  However, I believed him when he told me that Juan Ponce de Leon discovered a spring near the large tree midway down the alley.  In fact, if you are lucky, you might hear the trickle of the spring splashing into the bay.     The Fountain of Youth, so the story goes, actually stems from the earth from north Florida and travels underground. Every once in while it makes itself known one way or the another.

Safe travel to you and yours.  Embrace the day.

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The Rod & Gun Club. Photo by Jeane Brennan.

Entering by way of the back door might not be the best way to enter a home of distinction.  However, walking up the back steps and opening the old single-hung door of the Everglades City Rod and Gun Club is an experience of which I never tire.

In so many cases history becomes obliterated by progress,  something that is forgotten once that back door of the Rod and Gun Club closes.

Take a moment to feel the strength of the polished old wood paneling blanketing the walls and high ceiling; feel the power of the wild Everglades animals mounted on the walls, the huge fireplace, beautiful and safe. The past comes vividly alive.

The wall of newspaper articles, papered with history. Photo by Jeane Brennan.

As the back door vibrates shut there is no way to go but towards a narrow entry hall, its walls covered with decades-old newspaper clippings noting the history of this old Everglades town. They read like a novel one can’t put down.

In 1922 industrialist Barron Collier bought all that he could in the Everglades City area, planning to transfer this primitive outpost into another booming Miami.  He purchased the Rod and Gun Club, land on which the first permanent settler had first built his home in 1864.

Collier used the lodge as his private residence, entertaining presidents, musicians, and actors.  Wealthy hunters and eccentric anglers from around the world have visited this historic property since the early 1900’s.

The long porch along the river, where time stands still. Photo by Jeane Brennan.

The Rod and Gun Club sits on the bank of the Barron River, facing west.  A long protected porch hugs the lodge along the river side.  There is inside and outside dining, but sometimes just savoring the moment is satisfying enough at the Rod and Gun Club.  Outside on the front along the river, where boats can tie up along the seawall, is a porch with wicker furniture welcoming the Everglades traveler.  Fishing boats, the birds, the mangroves beyond, feeling the quiet and sensing the raw and beautiful land is an opportunity that many tourists and visitors should have the privilege to experience.

Rooms in the building are not used now, but air conditioned cottages are available and rates are exceptional.  Sitting on the porch after a day of fishing or exploring, while the chef cooks an Everglades fare, is a gift unlike any other.

The Rod and Gun Club is located at 200 Riverside Drive in Everglades City.  From Marco Island, take the Goodland Bridge heading north on CR 92 to US 41 (Tamiami Trail).  Go east and drive about 35 minutes. Watch for CR29 and at the blinking light with the gas station on the corner, head south.  Go straight on the road until the Seafood Depot, where the only way you can go is that sharp right-hand turn.  Continue half way around the round-about toward the Barron River. The Rod and Gun Club is on the right. Call 239-695-2101 for information or go to www.evergladesrodandgun.com.

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